今生不能錯過的100款葡萄酒
英國著名葡萄酒刊物《Decanter》在04年發表，一百支今生不能錯過的葡萄酒，當中有很多都在《神之水滴》中出現過，包括在第一集「神咲豊多香」死之喝的葡萄酒「1959 Richebourg」。
作為葡萄酒愛好者，當然希望有一天能一一品嚐這些稀世珍品，得以死後含笑九泉，但當中很多年代久遠的葡萄酒，算你是億萬富翁，亦未必有幸一親香澤。
其實要選出這一份100款經典好酒的酒單並不是很容易，因為有太多優良產區和卓越的年份的好酒可以選，如果是要列出幾百款可能還容易些。這篇報導的前面提到，在整理這份史上最偉大的葡萄酒的名單時，他們請受訪的專家想像一下：在最後一頓晚餐中，哪些酒是他們最想喝的呢？開胃的香檳和結束的甜酒自然是不可少的。要從好年份（如1945、1959、1961）的波爾多五大酒莊，或者從好年份（如1966、1978、1990）的勃根地Domaine de la Romanée-Conti（簡稱DRC）酒莊選出各50款頂尖好酒是輕而易舉的，所以他們必須做一些取捨，留一些名額給其他酒；雖然如此，波爾多五大酒莊和DRC還是佔了不少名額。
這篇報導綜合了三十幾位葡萄酒專家的意見，受訪者有大名鼎鼎的Hugh Johnson、Tom Stevenson、Michael Broadbent、Clive Coates MW（Master of Wine）、Sotheby拍賣公司葡萄酒部門的頭頭Serena Sutcliffe MW、瑞典的Richard Juhlin、澳洲葡萄酒專家James Halliday，還有其他多位MW，以及新加坡著名的華人葡萄酒專家莊布忠先生等等。受訪的專家有差不多一半是英國人，所以我認為這篇報導在某個程度上 反映出英國人對好酒的價值觀，選出來的葡萄酒著重在歐洲，尤其是法國的部分，而新世界的酒只有寥寥數款，從後面列出來的酒單上各位可以自行參考判斷一下； 但是這未嘗不是一件好事，因為大家平素看慣了美國人的報導，看一看英國的報導平衡一下也不錯。各位看完這份酒單可能有些酒有人會不太認同，也說不定會顛覆一些人許多的既有印象，不過總是或多或少可以讓各位酒痴們拓展一下資訊版圖吧。
100 Wines to Try before you Die from Decanter August 9 2004
It's the connoisseur's favourite dinner party subject: what's the best wine you've ever tasted? We recruited the world's top experts to come up with the most awe-inspiring wine list you'll ever see.
前十名中，至少有三支在香港可以買到，而前十名是：
1945 Château Mouton-Rothschild 《Altaya Vintage 1982 標價 HK$ 11,800》
The young artist Philippe Julian became the first in a host of artists to decorate the Mouton label (discounting Jean Carlu's cubist label design of 1924). His 'V' for victory design — 'Année de la Victoire' — captured the celebratory mood of the year, and became an icon.
Although a wave of euphoria swept over Europe at the end of WWII, the hostilities had taken their toll on the British economy, making the idea of splashing out £1 for a bottle of a (then) second growth unfeasible for most. Michael Broadbent was convinced of its merits, however, advising his friends to buy as many as they could. Today, single bottles sell at auction for upto £2,420. A case of the 1945 fetched US$76,375 (£42,358) in America last year.
'Without doubt, this is the greatest claret of the 20th century,' says Broadbent. 'Intense, concentrated, indescribable — and with years of life left.'
'It's not an original choice, but it's the most complete claret ever,' says Serena Sutcliffe MW. 'Profound, with total, focused intensity and a taste of blackcurrants, coffee and chocolate.' As well as the end of the war, 1945 saw frosts, drought and excessive heat in Bordeaux. This is the very symbol of victory over adversity.
被酒評家評為100分的1945年份Château Mouton Rothschild紅酒，去年在本地的一個葡萄酒拍賣會中，12瓶的成交價為120萬港元，這酒具有成熟的黑醋栗香、咖啡、烤木香氣，而且口感濃厚，層次複雜。酒莊是唯一一個在1855年以後，在1973年被提升為Premier Cru（First Growth）的酒莊，目前法國官方排名中，也是位列Premier Cru（First Growth）的5大酒莊之一。自1945年起，酒莊每年都邀請著名藝術家設計酒標，最著名的是1973年畢加索的「酒神狂歡圖」，不少人都為了收藏酒標而珍藏此酒莊的紅酒，不少酒莊亦效仿此做法。
1961 Château Latour《Altaya 標價 HK$ 39,800》
For Bordeaux purists, Latour's austere expression of Cabernet remains the benchmark. Always among the most consistent of châteaux, the Pauillac first growth has enjoyed a return to form in recent years, following criticism for its weaker wines of the 1980s. Connoisseurs will argue that this has coincided with its return to French propriety, after four decades of English ownership.
A 100-point Parker wine, the 1961 is 'undoubtedly one of the wines of the last century,' says Chris Munro of Christie's. 'What a pleasure. What a triumph. Almost beyond words — a pure, port-like, majestic wine with hints of mint, cedar and concentration of fruit.'
Jasper Morris of Berry Brothers remembers being introduced to it by the legendary taster Harry Waugh in 1981. 'It was much too young but stunning nonetheless,' he says. 'Glorious and nearing its peak in 2001, it may still be nearing its peak in 20 years time!' With this in mind, a 12-bottle case would be in the region of £34,000, if you're interested.
1978 La Tâche - Domaine de la Romanée-Conti《Altaya 標價 HK$ 44,000》
Romanée-Conti's exclusively-owned monopolie vineyard, the 6ha La Tâche, is the largest of the domaine. Yet it produces between just 1,880 cases a year. While the productions are miniscule — 20-25 hectolitres per hectare — the prices are mammoth. La Tâche DRC sells at around £15,000 per 12 bottle case, and is, in the words of Burgundy expert Anthony Hanson, 'rarely anything other than spectacular and fascinating'.
The 1978 is 'all about fragrance, finesse and balance,' says Huon Hooke. 'As close to the perfect wine as it gets.' Robert Parker describes it as 'among the greatest red Burgundies I have ever tasted — will continue to improve for several decades'.
1921 Château d'Yquem 《Altaya Vintage 2001 標價 HK$ 5,500》
The 1921 harvest took 39 days to pick and was the last vintage that Yquem owner Le Comte de Lur-Saluces sold in cask. In March this year, Christie's sold one bottle sold for £1,375 — doubles the estimate.
David Peppercorn MW describes the wine as 'one of the miracles of the last century. The 1921 hardly seems to have changed for the last 30 years. It still has great sweetness and even keeps an impression of freshness. There is the complexity and every nuance that is the signature of this extraordinary wine.' The stuff of legends, described by Michael Broadbent as 'a colossus' and 'the most staggeringly rich Yquem of all time'. On this basis, it edges out the 1983 Château d'Yquem, when ideal growing conditions and a large harvest made this one of the years for Sauternes in general. (£2,000 a case.)
1959 Richebourg - Domaine de la Romanée-Conti《Altaya 標價 HK$ 39,000》
Big, fat and ripe, Richebourg lasts a long time. That said, Burgundy guru Clive Coates MW reckons the 'marvellous' 1959 has reaching its zenith, so if you've got any of the £1,000 bottles lying around, you might want to reach for the corkscrew.
1959 was one of the great Burgundy vintages of the 20th century and marked 'the end of an era' according to Michael Broadbent. The only problem with ｓ ｅｌｅｃｔing the Richebourg as our choice is that it was 'a bit too predictable,' says Gordon Ramsay sommelier Ronan Sayburn. 'Superb Pinot Noir perfume, deep, deep fruit and rich maturity, full, powerful and mature,' is John Radford's verdict.
1962 Penfolds Bin 60A《Altaya Vintage 2004 標價 HK$ 4,200》
Made by Grange pioneer Max Schubert, this legendary wine is considered by many to be the finest Australian wine ever made. Andre Tchelistcheff, the founding father of Californian wine, instructed a room of Napa Valley to 'stand in the presence of this wine'.
It is a blend of one-third Coonawarra Cabernet and two-thirds Barossa Shiraz. Aussie guru James Halliday describes it as a 'glorious, wonderful wine with potent cedar, blackcurrant, espresso aromas. The palate has magnificant texture, structure and length — a finely woven tapestry of innumerable flavours.' Not only had Schubert ｃ ｒｅａｔｅd 'Australia's greatest red wine,' says Halliday, 'he laid the ground for the revolution in Australian red winemaking'. In the recent Rewards of Patience tasting, Joanna Simon described the 60A as 'lovely, complex and sweet-fruited'.
The early bin Penfolds wines are very rare. Occasional auction appearances put the price per bottle at around £500. Worth every penny.
1978 Montrachet - Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 《Altaya Vintage 1989 標價 HK$ 39,000》
At last, a white wine. And a Chardonnay at that. But not just any Chardonnay. 'Le Montrachet is Chardonnay at its most perfect — the slowest to mature, the longest lived,' says Coates. Montrachet can be an immensely frustrating wine, however.' Usually it is drunk too young, or the wine is a disappointment,' says David Peppercorn MW. When it's good, though, it embodies everything one can hope for, and more besides, from the greatest white Burgundy.
The haven is split evenly between Puligny- and Chassagne-Montrachet, with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti owning vines in the Chassagne section. Its 1978 is a 'fabulous textbook white Burgundy with gunflint, crisp Chardonnay notes, and enormous perfume which lasts in the empty glass for hours,' says John Radford. Just nudges out the 1991, itself 'a sublime experience,' according to Peppercorn.
1947 Château Cheval-Blanc《Altaya Vintage 2005 標價 HK$ 9,800》
A controversial choice, and not without resonance when set against the debate over the typicity of today's Bordeaux wines. The 1947 summer was very hot and harvesting was 'tropical'. Producers walked a tightrope during harvest time — those unable to control the temperature of hot grapes were left with residual sugar and stratospheric levels of volatile acidity. Successful winemakers produced what Robert Parker calls 'the richest, most opulent reds Bordeaux produced in the 20th century.'
The Cheval-Blanc is very rich, overripe and concentrated, and could be said to be the precursor of today's Right Bank, Pomerol blockbusters. One bottle was sold at Christie's this year and fetched £1,250 — well over the estimate. Surprisingly, given her criticism of Bordeaux 2003's 'port-like' wines, it is a favourite of Jancis Robinson MW, who describes it in an interview with Square Meal as her 'last chosen wine on earth'. Even this comes with the qualification, however, that it be a particular magnum Robinson enjoyed 10 years ago. Broadbent notes a good deal of development over the years, and some volatility, yet still rates it as 'undoubtedly one of the finest wines ever made.' Marginally more stunning than the 1982 Cheval Blanc.
1982 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
In the 1970s, a family dispute saw the owner of Pichon-Lalande, William Alain Miailhe, charged by his sisters with mismanagement. Shareholders brought in outsiders (from Chasse-Spleen and Léoville-Les-Cases) to take over during a six-year standoff, before, in 1978, the Miailhe family agreed, via lawyers, to draw lots to dictate who would take sole ownership of the prime vineyard.
Although classified as a Preuillac, one third of the Pichon vineyard is actually in St-Julien. Its 1982 is not a classic Bordeaux, but it has an over-ripe, exotic quality which David Peppercorn finds 'irrestistable'.
This was the first case of "serious" wine Andrew Jefford ever bought, using £250 which his great-aunt left him. 'It cost about £90 in 1984,' he says. 'Needless to say. it was an extremely lucky hit. I still remember this soft, ripe, tongue-caressing, velvet-lined Pauillac with nostalgic passion.' Today, it can be snapped up at auction for around £2,000 a case. 'Well-upholstered, delectable sweetness and fruit,' says Broadbent.
1947 Le Haut Lieu Moelleux, Vouvray, Huet SA 《Altaya Vintage 1953 標價 HK$ 1,800》
As well as being a seminal year in Bordeaux, 1947 is generally credited as being the Loire's best post-war vintage. Coincidentally, it was the year in which the late Gaston Huet, that most venerated of Loire winemakers, became mayor of Vouvray.
It is 'an extraordinary vintage,' says Jim Budd. 'Now in its early middle age, the 1947 is wonderfully complex and is likely to still be drinkable in 2104.' John Livingstone-Learmonth credits is as 'the wine that started me off on the wine trail when I tasted it in 1973. Still today a cornucopia of scents, flavours, memories. It has wonderful artistic presence — history, music, bright colours.'
Le Haut Lieu gets a nod in the preface to Sir Wａｌ ｔｅｒ Scott's tale of 15th century romance and rivalry in France, Quentin Durward. The 1947 will cost you £800 for a magnum, up to £3,500 for a 12-bottle case. Expect to be able to cut through that foie grass with ease and a dash of honey, apricot and vanilla.
其餘九十款是：
1952 Chateau Ausone《Altaya Vintage 2005 標價 HK$ 21,800》
'Perfectly balanced claret,' says Monty Waldin, 'with unshowy, digestible old-vine fruit from the greatest vineyard site in Bordeaux in the most elegant vintage there in half a century.' £500
1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc《Altaya Vintage 2005 標價 HK$ 9,800》
Controversial. 1947 was very hot and harvesting was tropical but successful wine-makers produced what Robert Parker calls 'the richest, most opulent red Bordeaux of the 20th century'. The 1947 Cheval Blanc is a precursor of today's Right Bank blockbusters, and, as such, outdoes the 1982. £1,250
這支酒在十大已出現過，但翻看原文《http://www.decanter.com/news/57252.html》，証實沒有搞錯，所以有點摸不著頭腦！
1949 Chateau Climens《Altaya Vintage 1947 標價 HK$ 6,900》
Considered by many to be the most consistent and reliable Sauternes-Barsac château, its 1949 is 'still superb', says Michael Broadbent. £220
1959 Chateau Haut-Brion《Altaya Vintage 2005 標價 HK$ 10,900》
'There is no wine that can deliver the complexity, depth and balance from its aromatics to the flavours on the palate better than a great Haut-Brion and the 1959 has everything going for it,' says Nikos Antonakeas. 'Ethereal.' £1,300
1966 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc
The only white Bordeaux on the list, but alas demand is so high, and supply so low, that it's nigh-on impossible to get hold of a bottle. £900 (case 12)
1959 Chateau Lafite《Altaya 標價 HK$ 28,000》
Sarah Kemp 'will never forget the first taste of this wine — sweet, glorious claret dancing round my palate, elegance vinified. As good as it gets.'
1949 Chateau Latour《Altaya 標價 HK$ 29,000》
Of all the great Bordeaux names, it was Latour which received the most nominations. The epitome of consistency, its wines are renowned for their forbidding tannins in youth, which give way to rich, velvety masculinity as they age. The 1949 'flirts with perfection' says Parker, on the back of 'a rare opulence, a voluptuous texture and a succulent finish'. £260
Also highly rated: 1959, 1990 Château Latour 《Altaya 標價 HK$ 28,000, HK$ 8,300》
1986 Chateau Leoville-Barton 《Altaya Vintage 2003 標價 HK$ 1,190》
One of the more affordable Bordeaux wines on the list, at £500 a case.
1961 Chateau Lynch-Bages 《Altaya 標價 HK$ 4,980》
Along with 1945 and 1982, 1961 ranks as one of the best years for 20th-century Bordeaux. Fifth-growth Lynch-Bages is a relative bargain, making around £2,000 a case at auction, and pips 1961 Château Figeac.
1982 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion《Altaya 標價 HK$ 10,500》
Few wines from this, the first modern vintage, combine the charm of the year with such concentration. 'Complex tobacco and oriental spices, many-layered textures and huge depth', says David Peppercorn MW. £2,500 (case 12)
1990 Chateau Margaux《Altaya 標價 HK$ 11,800》
'The 1990 vintage in Bordeaux won me over early on', recalls Norm Roby. The 1990 Margaux edges out the 1985 for its 'sublimely feminine, velvety, fragrant and seductive tone'. Wins out over the 1990 Latour, Cheval Blanc and Pétrus. £3,000 (case 12)
Also highly rated: 1985 Château Margaux 《Altaya 標價 HK$ 4,750》
1998 Chateau Petrus《Altaya 標價 HK$ 26,900》
Perhaps the most individual wine in the world, we could have chosen umpteen vintages of Pétrus (1982, 1989, 1990) but we plumped for the embryonic miracle of fascination that is the 1998. 'Enormous, exotic depth of flavour that never goes away,' says Serena Sutcliffe MW. 'May I die drinking it.' £7,000 (case 12)
1998 Clos l'Eglise, Pomerol
After a long undistinguished period, some great wines are emerging from this Pomerol château. The 1999 has 'elegant plum and cedar aromas mixed with dark chocolate, and superb finesse,' says top sommelier, Ronan Sayburn. £300 (case 12)
1993 Comte Georges de Vogue, Musigny Vieilles Vignes
'A sublime example of silky, powerful, intense grand cru Burgundy', says Nick Adams MW. 'It's just emerging from its shell and expressing its terroir and sheer class.'
1981 Comte Lafon, les Genevrieres, Meursault
Its Montrachet may be the pièce de resistance at Lafon, but the Meursault is its standard-bearer. £180
1998 Dennis Bachelet, Charmes-Chambertin
This tiny estate produces softer wines than its Chambertin neighbours. Its hallmarks, as exhibited in the 1988, are finesse, class and perfume. £60
1990 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tache《Altaya 標價 HK$ 42,000》
Steven Spurrier's favourite wine of all time. 'Still deep in colour, floral in aroma, velvety and enveloping on the palate,' he says. 'More than a work of art, it is a work of nature brought to life by the dedication of man - the purest expression possible of its soil.' £3,000 (case 12)
1966 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, La Tache
Len Evans concedes that Spurrier's beloved 1990 La Tâche 'may one day be better', but maintains that for drinking now, it's difficult to beat the 1966. 'Just exquisite — incredible nose, length and strength, power with harmony and finesse.' The 1972 and 1978 were also mooted. £3,740 (case 12)
1966 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-Conti《Altaya 標價 HK$ 72,000》
If the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti appellation is the central pearl of the Côte de Nuits necklace, the Romanée-Conti vineyard makes up the diamond encrusting. The 1966 is a wine of 'pure strawberry fruit and aromas—poetry in a bottle', says Ch'ng Poh Tiong. 'The most unforgettable wine I've ever had.' Only 7,000 bottles were made. £11,000 (case 12)
1921 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, Romanee-Conti
If the 1966 was an indulgent choice, the 1921, is the stuff of dreams. Along with the 1945, 1978, 1985... 'A mind-blowing, extraordinary taste of bewitching spices — heady concentration and opulence on a solid base,' says Sutcliffe. 'Unequalled — I can taste it now.'
1978 Domaine Joseph Drouhin, Musigny
Nick Adams MW remembers enjoying a jeroboam from the domaine's own cellars four years ago. 'Beautifully mature and expressive, this was a true expression of the silky gaminess which ultra-fine, old Burgundy can produce,' he says. 'Every aspect of the wine was in total harmony.' £350
1996 Domaine Leflaive, Le Montrachet Grand Cru
To many connoisseurs, Leflaive is Puligny-Montrachet. But it is for its Le Montrachet that it makes our list. Clive Coates MW, Mr Côte d'Or himself, simply says that it is a wine one should drink 'on bended knee and with heartfelt and humble thanks'. £120+
1993 Domaine Ramonet, Montrachet
Ramonet is an artisan domaine, with a reputation for doing things by instinct, so sometimes bottles can be of uneven quality. When they're good, though, they're seriously good, as with the 1993 Montrachet. 'The nose is smoky, minerally and very complex', says Sayburn. 'The palate remains very elegant and fine with an amazing rush of nuts, caramel and citrus fruit on the finish.' £1,000
1996 G Roumier, Bonnes Mares《Altaya Vintage 2001 標價 HK$ 4,150》
'If these are desert islands wines, this is for the days when Friday catches a wild pig,' says Giles MacDonogh of this Côte de Nuits gem. £165
1990 La Moutonne, Chablis Grand Cru
This is everything that fine, mature Chablis should be. 'A wonderful combination of mineral fruit and flinty acidity,' says Rosemary George MW. 'Beautifully balanced and mature, but still with potential for future development.' £30
1966 Lafon, Le Montrachet
Owned by René Lafon, there exists a mere third of a hectare in the Le Montrachet climat here, but it is enough to make a deeply intense, fat wine, none more so than the 1966, a stunning Burgundy vintage. £500
1990 Rene & Vincent Dauvissat, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru
Dauvissat's wines have a reputation for ageing superbly. In doing so, reckons Parker, 'They exhibit a marriage of fruit and spicy vanilla oak that is glorious to experience.' A toss-up between this and the 1996. £50+
1929 Robert Arnoux, Clos de Vougeot《Altaya Vintage 2005 標價 HK$ 1,880》
Robert Arnoux owns a 0.4ha parcel of Clos de Vougeot's 50ha grand cru vineyard and produced this legendary tipple 75 years ago. 'Vibrant cherry colour, strawberries and raspberries still surviving on the palate — I could not believe the wine was this old,' says Sayburn.
Alsace
1995 JosMeyer, Hengst, Riesling, Vendange Tardive
'Not at all sweet, but not fully fermented either, this is my Riesling of the moment to drool over,' says Tom Stevenson. 'It's absolute perfection when partnered with a tatin of cherry tomatoes served with crème fraîche.'
1975 Trimbach, Clos Ste-Hune, Riesling
It was a hard choice as to the greatest dry Riesling vintage of all time (1990, 1983, 1979, 1976...) but there's no doubt as to the top producer — Trimbach. The 1975 Clos Ste-Hune can still be found at specialist retailers and occasionally in the auction room, but true connoisseurs will insist their bottles came direct from Ribeauville.
1997 Zind-Humbrecht, Clos Jebsal, Tokay Pinot Gris
To many lovers of delicate, fruity white wines, Zind-Humbrecht is the ultimate Alsace estate. The wines are powerful and rich, nowhere better demonstrated than in this Pinot Gris. £378 (case 12)
1959 Billecart-Salmon, Cuvee Nicolas-Francois
Serena Sutcliffe MW gave this wine a facetious 101 points at the great Millennium Champagne tasting in Sweden. 'The ultimate divine hedgerows—bouquet, creamy delicacy allied to great depth and finesse, mega-dimension and length,' she recalls. 'I shall probably never taste this again, but I will never forget it.'
1996 Bollinger, Vieilles Vignes Francaises
This 100% Pinot Noir Champagne is extremely rare and is 'simply the greatest Champagne of the moment,' reckons Stevenson. Made from 0.6ha of ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines. £200
1997 Charles Heidsieck, Mis en Cave
In 1857, Charles-Camille Heidsieck went to the United States. He became so popular, the Americans called him 'Champagne Charlie'. The rest is history. 'The highest consistency, top-quality Champagne for everyday drinking,' says Stevenson. £37
1988 Dom Perignon
Moët & Chandon's legendary luxury cuvée honouring the famous monk was launched in 1936. The 1988 is 'as clear as the purest diamond,' according to Richard Juhlin. 'It has toast, coffee beans and orange fruit on the nose, and clear, sharp fruit and nuts on the palate.' One for the cellar, it will be even better in a decade. £130
1990 Dom Perignon (in magnum) 《Altaya 標價 HK$ 2,290》
If you can't wait, however, try a magnum of the 1990. According to Stevenson, the standard 75cl bottle of 1990 can show traces of greenness, but in magnum, it has a 'fabulous purity of ripe fruit and an immaculate mousse.' £200
1990 Krug《Altaya Vintage 1996 標價 HK$ 2,490》
To be honest, we could have included just about any Krug grande cuvée with five or more years' bottle age. 'A vintage Krug is the standard by which all other vintage Champagnes are tasted,' says Juhlin. The recently released 1990 is arguably its best ever. 'Big-bodied, creamy, and delicious,' says Norm Roby. £125
1979 Louis Roederer, Cristal《Altaya Vintage 1996 標價 HK$ 3,800》
In 1876, Tsar Alexander II of Russia made a special order for an ultra-rich Champagne, bottled in clear glass. Since then, Roederer has never had a problem selling its Cristal, with today's prime customers tending to be US pop icons. According to Broadbent, the 1979 is 'perfectly mature' and 'superb in every way'. £100+
1982 Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses
Made from a 5.5ha vineyard acquired by founder Pierre Philipponat in 1935, the Clos des Goisses is the top wine of the house and one of the few walled vineyards, or clos, in the region. £100+
1995 Pol Roger《Altaya 標價 HK$ 590》
The Champagne house founded in 1849 is arguably the most consistent of all. Winston Churchill's favourite, the top choice for Steven Spurrier is the 1995 — soft, elegant, yet ripe. £37
Loire
1996 Domaine des Baumard, Clos du Papillon, Savennieres
'Wonderfully fragrant and aromatic nose, enormous complexity on the palate,' says John Radford. 'Delicious, fresh and perfectly balanced'. £15
1959 Moulin Touchais, Anjou
£130
2001 Andre Perret, Coteau de Chery, Condrieu
The only wine to feature the rare, but increasingly popular Viognier grape. £40
1989 Chapoutier, La Sizeranne 《Altaya Vintage 1991 標價 HK$ 860》
The power of this Hermitage is such, that years after he first tried it, Roby can vividly recall the 'darker than dark hue, with herbs, minerals, and spices packed into an immense frame.' £35
1998 Chateau La Nerthe, Cuvee des Cadettes
A £60 bottle from the imposing Châteauneuf estate.
1989 Chateau Rayas《Altaya 標價 HK$ 6,900》
Full of 'soft, velvety truffles, mushrooms and spice,' says Sayburn of this exemplary Châteaneuf-du-Pape. £265
1978 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, Hermitage Blanc
When it comes to historic French estates, they don't come much better than Chave, whose family has been in business since 1481. Although mainly red producers, the family owns 5ha of white vines. This Roussanne-Marsanne blend, known for its apple and quince flavours, gets more opulent with time.
1983 Guigal, La Landonne《Altaya Vintage 1982 標價 HK$ 4,850》
Guigal ages its single-vineyard Côte-Rôtie for 42 months in new oak. But it's worth the wait, says Lawther: 'A truly noble wine, full of power and vigour with a sumptuous bouquet that expresses the complexity of age and still lively quality of the fruit.' £50
1999 Guigal, La Mouline, Cote-Rotie《Altaya Vintage 2003 標價 HK$ 5,750》
£160
1983 Jaboulet, La Chapelle, Hermitage 《Altaya Vintage 1989 標價 HK$ 2,900》
£60
1985 Chateau Montus, Prestige, Madiran
In the early 1980s, Madiran was barely known as a wine region. One man changed that — Alain Brumont, of Bouscassé. 'In 1989 I met Alain Brumont and was impressed' says Jim Budd. This wine was confirmation of this promise. Made from 100% Tannat, it was full on the palate with lovely texture and great length.' £45 Montus' 2000 La Tyre was also nominated.
1998 Domaine Bunan, Moulin des Costes, Charriage, Bandol
This small coastal region in Provence produces arguably Provence's best wines. Predominantly tannic, they are mainly made from Mourvèdre and count Andrew Jefford as a big fan. £10
1990 Ca' del Bosco, Cuvee Annamaria Clementi, Franciacorta
'The best ever vintage of Maurizio Zanella's Chardonnay-Pinot Bianco-Pinot Nero cuvée, this has everything that you could wish for in a classic sparkling wine; complexity, texture, length, and bags of energy,' says Richard Baudains. £60
1979 Cantina Terlano, Terlano Classico, Alto Adige
'Bottles from the legendary reserves of this Alto Adige winery periodically emerge to demonstrate their defiance of the ravages of time with incredible arrays of aroma, freshness and vitality. Unforgettable,' proclaims Baudains.
1990 Ciacci Piccolomini, Riserva, Brunello di Montalcino
'Ciacci may have lost its way in more recent years but the 1990 Riserva remains one of the few really great Italian wines I've enjoyed,' says Michael Palij MW. 'Divine — a dazzling combination of power and complexity.' £40
1997 Dal Forno Romano, Amarone della Valpolicella《Altaya Vintage 1996 標價 HK$ 7,600》
An amazing blockbuster: 'Super concentrated black fruits, liquorice, powerful and muscular weight in mouth', says Sayburn. £1,000 (case 12)
1990 Fattoria il Paradiso, Brunello di Montalcino
1982 Gaja, Sori Tildin, Barbaresco《Altaya Vintage 1993 標價 HK$ 1,790》
£200
1995 Tenuta di Ornellaia
In a relatively short period of time, the Antinori family, joined latterly by the Mondavis, have established a cult Bordeaux blend in a part of Tuscany better known for Sangiovese. Such is the lure of the Ornellaia name today that its wine has been the subject of several fraud scandals. £45
1985 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia
Only a few bottles of this magical wine are still in circulation. It is hard to think of anything in Italy to beat it. 'Still in perfect form, this is sheer, unequivocal greatness,' reckons Baudains. £900
Germany
2001 Donnhoff, Hermannshole, Riesling Spatlese, Niederhauser
The genius of the winemaker, Helmut Dönnhoff, is other-worldy,' says Howard G Goldberg. 'His flavours bring tears to the eyes.' £22
1976 Egon Muller, Scharzhofberger TrockenBeerenAuslese
'Orange tawny; indescribably lovely bouquet and perfect balance of fruit, lime honey and acidity.' So says Michael Broadbent. £50
1976 Fritz Haag, Juffer-Sonnenuhr Brauneberger, Riesling TBA
£70
1976 JJ Prum, Trockenbeerenauslese, Wehlener Sonnenuhr
This Mosel estate — dedscribed as 'superlative and legendary' by Hugh Johnson was a popular choice, with votes also coming in for the 1990 Prum TBA and 1988 Prum Riesling Auslese. £50
1983 Maximin Grunhaus, Abtsberg Auslese, Ruwer
This estate was Andrew Jefford's first case buy of great German wine. 'Bought in 1985, it was all drunk by 1992 or so,' he says. 'But I still remember its gossamer grace and dewｄ ｒｏｐ limpidity. It taught me that, even in wine, less can mean more.' £30
1998 Henschke, Hill of Grace
'I don't know if I have ever tasted a better young Shiraz from Australia,' says Adams. 'While it is infanticide to drink it now, it is seductive. It has remarkable primary fruit flavours and depth, but also a sense of origin and terroir. It will develop for at least another 20 years.' £2,000 (case 12)
1959 Lindemans, Bin 1590, Hunter Valley
One of the oldest wineries in Australia, and known as a pioneer of new style wines, the older bin wines reveal a much more classic tone, appreciated by Len Evans among others. £100+
1982 Seppelts, Riesling, Eden Valley
£50
1974 Martha's Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon
'On my 50th birthday,' Goldberg recalls, 'Pat Cetta gave me this Cabernet. King of the Schmoozers, Pat had a heart bigger than the Ritz. The minty, autumnal red sent my dry-aged beef and hash browns heavenward.' £500
1991 Monte Bello, Ridge《Altaya Vintage 1984 標價 HK$ 1,950》
Adams rates this as one of the greatest and most accessible Cabernet-Merlot blends he has ever tasted from the New World. 'There is a silkiness and texture which is almost ethereal and an intensity of fruit and minerality which marks out all world-class wines,' he says. £100+
1985 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Cask 23, Cabernet Sauvignon《Altaya Vintage 1978 1.5L 標價 HK$ 4,900》
When this wine first appeared, long before cult Cabernets, Helen Turley, and ultra-ripe fruit bombs, it went off the charts. Unlike many of California's great wines, it is now at its peak. £300
1964 Vega Sicilia, Unico
Vega Sicilia's 'exclusive' reputation was formed in 1915, when it was only obtainable if one was a friend of the family. The 1964 has enormous complexity and deep, dark fruit. 'Still on the young side, but opening up beautifully,' says John Radford, and thus trumping the 1970 Unico. £325
2000 Dominio de Pingus, Pingus《Altaya Vintage 1998 標價 HK$ 4,180》
This iconic estate in the Ribera del Duero is run by Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck. Its flagship wine is 100% Tinto Fino aged in 150% French oak for up to 20 months. £23
Hungary
1973 Crown Estates, Tokaji Aszu Essencia
£265
1993 Royal Tokaji, Szt Tamas, 6 Puttonyos
This first growth Tokaji from the wonderful 1993 vintage is a favourite of Beverley Blanning MW. 'The incredibly rich, sweet palate combines smooth, cool, mushroomy flavours and zesty, orange marmalade fruit,' she says. 'It is full, with deliciously refreshing acidity and endless length.' £45: 35cl
Austria
1995 Emmerich Knoll, Gruner Veltliner, Smaragd, Wachau
£30
非常出人意表地，奧地利唯一一款入選的酒居然不是高檔的貴腐甜酒，而只是一款遲採收的酒。
New Zealand
1996 Ata Rangi, Pinot Noir《Altaya Vintage 2007 標價 HK$ 430》
£23
1914 Cossart Gordon, Bual
'With a haunting perfume of caramel and crystallised violets, this is a perfectly effortless harmony of gently sweet yet intensely-concentrated fruit, taut defining acidity, absolute clarity of flavours, silky texture and, above all, a seemingly inexhaustible persistence of scent,' says Michael Schuster. 'Utterly ravishing.' £500
Emilio Lustau, Manuel Cuevas Jurado, Manzanilla Amontillada
Radford's favourite sherry has 'delicious hazelnuts on the nose, delicate butterscotch and a nutty, savoury palate. Completely dry.'
1927 Fonseca, Vintage Port
Along with the other Fonseca standout vintage of 1977, this is such a good port, reckons Norm Roby, it shouldn't be drunk with cheese or a cigar. 'It is a wine to savour on its own' £400
1945 Graham's
1945 is an amazingly consistent and luscious vintage. 'Like heavenly treacle and yet still full of red fruit,' says Sutcliffe. 'Unsurpassable.' £600
1795 Henriques & Henriques, Malmsey
'Everything good old Madeira should be,' writes Radford, 'with the richness teased out by maturity, an elegant perfume and a palate which seemed to go on for ever. One of only two wines in my life which I have marked 20/20.' £700
對，各位沒看錯，年份是1795年。這是一款Madeira【注一】，對於這一類加烈酒的陳年能力一點都不懷疑。
1862 HM Borges, Terrantez, Madeira
'Rare grape, great vintage. Unquestionably the most magnificent of the many old vintages I have tasted and, once opened, would remain drinkable for days, even months,' says Broadbent. Warm amber; over-whelming, lingering bouquet; great concentration and persistence.' £400
1931 Quinta do Noval, Nacional《Altaya Vintage 1963 標價 HK$ 27,500》
£2,000
1948 Taylor's 《Altaya Vintage 1977 標價 HK$ 1,390》
'One of the finest ports ever made: still deep, intense; magnificently evolved bouquet; sweet of course, exquisite and lingering,' writes Broadbent.
Also highly rated: 1935, 1927 Taylor's
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後記：
在網上作了點調查，發現名單上大部份的法國葡萄酒，在香港都可以買到，似乎香港越來越像個葡萄酒中心！
統計：
【注一】：Madeira是葡萄牙位于大西洋的一個小島，著名曼聯葡萄牙籍球星Cristiano Ronaldo也是Madeiran。Madeira Wine是指在Madeira Island出產的加烈葡萄酒（Fortified wine）。
版權與免責聲明：本網誌登載的所有文章出於傳遞信息之目的，絕不意味著本網誌贊同其觀點或證實其所描述內容。以上內容僅供網友學習與交流，無意侵犯版權。如有侵犯您的利益，請告知。我們將盡快刪除。
哇！好痛！
飲翻杯紅酒止下痛先！
我頂！
有排睇啊。